The technical guidance here are provided for the convenience of our customers. This section will be regularly updated with the relevant BMW and Mini car models that are typically maintained by Vebo Auto Service. All information on the FAQ is provided in good faith, however we make no representation or warranty of any kind, express or implied, regarding the accuracy, adequacy, validity, reliability, availability or completeness of any information on the FAQs. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHALL WE HAVE ANY LIABILITY TO YOU FOR ANY LOSS OR DAMAGE OF ANY KIND INCURRED AS A RESULT OF THE USE OF THE FAQ OR RELIANCE ON ANY INFORMATION PROVIDED. YOUR USE OF THE FAQ AND YOUR RELIANCE ON ANY INFORMATION ON THE FAQ IS SOLELY AT YOUR RISK.

Below are some sample photos of the multiple errors. Don’t worry. This is most likely related to a faulty wheel speed sensor. We can sort this out by scanning your car to determine which sensor is faulty and replace the broken sensor. Your car can still be driven as usual but functions that rely on wheel speed data may not work. Best to get it sorted out as soon as you can.

First, determine what is the behavior of the car. Category A: Low Voltage If you have a multimeter, check the voltage of the battery. Once a car is determined to have low voltage, you can use a mobile car jumper to start the car. This means the car's battery is weak and possibly a battery replacement is required. A trained mechanic may be required to determine why the battery is weak at the first place. Category B: Zero Crank but Voltage is above 12V Potential starter failure. You may need to tow your car to a workshop to confirm this. Category C: Car Cranks But Couldn't Start Potential fuel pump issue. Tow car to workshop to confirm this. Want to learn more? Check out this video.

Contact the workshop but if you're keen to perform some basic checks yourself, you can follow the steps below. Important: Do this only when your engine is cold to avoid scalding. Steps to Check Coolant Level Open the front bonnet and look for the coolant tank. For BMWs it's either translucent or black in color. If the tank is translucent: Check coolant level by looking at the liquid in the tank. Coolant level is considered low if you do not see any liquid at all or the liquid is below half the translucent tank. If the tank is black: Check if it's too hot to open by touching the cap. If it's ok to touch, carefully open the cap by turning it counter clock wise. Stop opening if you feel or hear that the pressure is building. With the cap removed, peek inside the tank to determine the coolant level. If a floating stick is available and it is fully submerged, coolant is considered low. The stick should pop-out when the coolant is at a proper level. What you do? Scenario A : Coolant Level Is Low And There's A Bad Leak Pour in clean water, close the cap, start the engine and monitor if the water drains immediately. If water immediately drains, tow your car to the workshop. Scenario B : Coolant Level Is Low But Leak Is Manageable Pour in clean water, close the cap, start the engine and monitor if the water drains immediately. If water do not drain, drive a short distance and monitor the level. If the short distance test drive is successful, arrange for the car to be checked by a workshop as soon as possible. Scenario C : Coolant Level Is Not Low (False Alarm) High chances for sensor failure. Continue to drive and monitor the overheat status. Plan ahead to send car to workshop to troubleshoot.

Start the car and check if there's an active leak. If YES, arrange for the car to be towed to the workshop. If NO, proceed below. Next thing to check is the BMW's iDrive. Do you see the error message 'Please top up 1L engine oil”? If YES, proceed to top-up 1L 5w30 or 5w40 fully synthetic oil (any brand) as soon as you can. Then, arrange for your car to be checked by a workshop. If NO, there's possibility of an external leak. Arrange for your car to be checked by a workshop. If your car comes with a dip-stick, you can also check if the engine oil level if still sufficient. If engine oil is low, proceed to top-up with 5w30 or 5w40 fully synthetic oil (any brand) as soon as you can up to the max level of the dip-stick.

First, determine where does the sound comes from: Engine Bay If the comes from engine bay, and look for the signs below Sign 1 : 'Battery Not Charging" error. Stop driving as the accessory belt might be broken and continuous driving will cause massive battery discharge. The car will eventually stop moving once the battery is completely drained. Arrange for a tow truck and tow the car to the workshop to troubleshoot. Sign 2: "Overheat" error Stop driving as vehicle is overheating (ie: due to broken belt) and continuous driving will result in severe damage to the engine. Tow the car to the workshop to troubleshoot. Sign 3: Aircond Stops Working and Power Steering Fails to work Stop driving as the accessory belt might be broken. Arrange for a tow truck and tow the car to the workshop to troubleshoot. Sign 4: Loud whistling sound (ie: kettle boiling sound) It is possible that the Positive Crankcase Valve (PCV) is failing; hence causing vacuum leak. Car can be driven but arrange to go to the workshop as soon as possible. Sign 5: General minor knocking or rattling sound. Sometimes, our older BMW and Mini can make some minor knocking and rattling sound from the engine bay. Especially, when certain components started to give way, causing it to shake and rattle. It is best to send it to the workshop asap if the sound is consistent and loud (towing might be a good option). If the sound it minor, soft, and difficult to reproduce, it should be OK to continue to driving but do arrange for a visit to the workshop to figure out what went wrong. Undercarriage Sound If the sound comes from undercarriage, see below: Sign 1: Any warning sign in the meter cluster that accompanies the sound? No : Continue driving to the nearest workshop to troubleshoot the issue. Yes: Stop car and prepare car to be towed to workshop. Others Brake sound – Car can be driven but check in the iDrive to see what is the remaining amount on the brake pad. Get it replaced if it is found low. Visual check of the brakes is also recommended. Arm bush failure – Car can be driven but get it checked whenever possible. Absorber mounting – Car can be driven but get it checked whenever possible.

This means there is external engine oil leak which you could plan ahead in the future to visit the workshop to get it troubleshoot.

It depends on the severity of the moisture. Vehicle submerged in water Do not try to start the car. When the flood clears, tow car to workshop. Only the passenger side is wet (left side of the car) If your car is BMW 5 Series (F10), this is because the steering column cover (also known as yellow grommet) is no longer properly sealed. Send car to workshop to change the cover and reseal it. Also request for water to be removed. Leak is near one or more doors Leak potentially is due to a bad door sealant. Go to workshop to replace seal and remove water. Car has sunroof Drainage point may be clogged. Go to workshop to unclog.

Do your best to secure the car to avoid blocking the traffic and put visible sign (Triangle warning / Hazard light) so that other drivers are alerted and will avoid your car. Call tow truck or insurance company to tow your car to workshop. If highway rangers are available they may also assist to tow your car to a safe location.

First, we need to determine the other symptoms that causes the check engine light. “Drivetrain error” on the iDrive and Car Is Vibrating/Jerking Even On Idle Engine is misfiring. Possible to drive car for short distances but go to the nearest workshop to sort it out. Car Lost Power Possibilities of turbo being cut from ECU due to failure. Possible to drive car for short distances but go to the nearest workshop to sort it out. No Error On iDrive and Engine Feels Like Normal Possibilities of emission control failure such as O2 sensor etc. Can drive but do get it sort out in the near future

Does your tyre looks fine and the low tyre pressure sign is accompanied by ABS, Brake, DSC, ASC, DTC error on cluster meter? If Yes, this potentially is due to a damaged wheel speed sensor. Do arrange for car to go to the workshop to replace the wheel speed sensor. If No, check tyre pressure for each tyre. There might be a puncture for the tyre with the lowest tyre pressure. Send car to the nearest tyre shop to confirm this and patch the tyre. Even run flat tyres (RFT) can be patched.

Does your car key comes with a physical/manual key? If yes, use the manual key to open the door manually and start the car by placing the remote closely to the steering column which have “key remote” sign. If no, you may need to engage the services of an automotive keysmith to pick your carlock. However, not all models can be picked and may require a forced entry instead. To avoid this from happening, ensure that you always have a good condition backup key.

Is your backup key still with you? Yes. Get the backup key to open the door and clone a new one as soon as possible. No. Depending on the car model, some can be lock pick to open the door manually but some model might require to break in.

First, check which category is this problem. Aircond blowing hot air? There might be low in gas (freon) which causes the compressor to stop working or sensor failure (when ambient temp showing -40 deg C). Aircond is not cold enough? Low in gas which causes the passenger and driver side having different temperature. Top up gas at the nearest workshop. Aircond blower not blowing air at all? Blower failure and blower needs to be replaced.

There are 2 possible scenarios. Scenario 1: Current Drain From A Device Or Component If you have a device attached to the ciggy lighter port, remove it immediate and monitor the next day. If error persist, need to send the car to the workshop to checked. Scenario 2: Car Battery Is Weak And It's Difficult To Start The Car During Cold Start Send the car to the workshop to get it checked.